Hey Roger,
more from the sand man :o).
In school we learned that epoxy is a "gap-loving" material other then glues
like yellow glue or resorcinol (how do you spell that again?).
But I'd trust the guys from West System on that quote.
Now here is another advice that might cost you (money). Use smaller steps
when you move up the grits. Which means you need to buy more sandpaper.
It's like honing your plane blade or chisel. The more stones you have the
faster you can move up to 3000 or 8000. It takes for ever to get those
scratches out from your grinder with a 3000 honing stone, but it only takes
a couple passes on each stone if you can squeeze in a 320, 800, 1000, 1500
for example. It's crazy but it does make a difference although you might not
be able to tell from the shine of your edge. If you use your hand plane for
finishing surfaces you'd be able to tell the difference. It's really
annoying when you stain wood and you run out off one grit of sandpaper. You
just cannot compensate for it. The wood will absorbs the stain differently
and you end up with a different colour. There is some microscopic
explanation for this phenomenon.
Back to our little problem at hand. You could start with 80 grit but it
might take you longer to "carve" out the shape you are looking for. One
option might be to go diagonally with 80 grit then move down to 60 and go
with the grain and then go back to 80 and 100 with the grain.
One rule of thumb: use smaller steps in the beginning (60, 80, 100, 120,
180, 250, 320 ... )
To add to the advice of vacuuming (Hoover-ing) ... you could use a small
broom as well. It helps to get rid of those loose glue lumps which you might
roll across your beautiful cedar. You have better control over your progress
and if your are not producing any new dust you know your sandpaper is dull.
Some sandpapers also start to disintegrate which will leave those really
hard silicone-something particles on the wood and dull your new sheet of
sandpaper really fast. If you use a new bag when you start, you can use the
fine dust really well as filler, if you still need any.
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: rowr@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:rowr@xxxxxxxxx]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 20. Dezember 2005 15:45
An: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Betreff: Re: AW: Aussie Swift taking shape
If I remember correctly, I think that I read somewhere in the West System
product info that you should not go with a smaller grain than 80 grit paper
for your final sand before epoxy, so that you get a good epoxy key into the
wood. Anything smaller than that makes it harder for the epoxy to bond to
the
wood. This is however tough to do to get the minor scratches out after major
sanding.
Any thoughts?
Roger
Quoting BDally6107@xxxxxxx:
> Really good advice Felix. Especially about vacuuming the dust frequently
> (no point in sanding fine dust into really fine dust). Your input is
always
>
> appreciated. On the other hand, we need to get you back to work on a
Swift.
>
> Get with it man! We want to see you on the race course.
>
> With the epoxy/graphite powder on the bottom, I think wet sanding is the
> real deal (no mask needed). Start with 200 grit and a 2 1/2 x1/4"
Mahogany
>
> long board that is the slightly long than your wet/dry paper (14"). Wrap
the
>
> paper around the board and use plenty of water. You really don't want to
> breath
> this dust so vac it up when it dries on your floor. Keep going up in
grade
>
> of paper and finish with 1000 or 1200 grit. It will look like a mirror
and
>
> will show where you need to do more work.
>
> A little reminder. PURCHASE AND WEAR A GOOD DUST MASK for dry sanding.
The
>
> full face type that covers your eyes works best (Fisheries Supply)
because
> it appears that some problems come through the tear ducts.
>
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