54 inches is a guide only but a good one
There has been a lot pf discussion on the length and size of the CB, search
Catzooks for the info and why it makes a difference based on the skippers
weight.
In summary, Bram would like to make a measurement of 55 as the max for very
good practical reasons but its not in the rules yet. we will discuss it at
Desoto. The area under the water is completely up to you.
NYC skiffs will build, in cnc cut foam, whatever blade section or profile
you want. If you are using the off the shelf blade then we purposely cut the
stock and the foil longer than you need to aid in manufacturing. (keep the
usable part well away from the ends of the saddles that can deform during
fabrication).
If you want my guesstimate
for 165lb skipper cut off the top, there will still be plenty of area and
stock section to raise the board.
185lb cut both, perhaps a little more off the bottom than the top.
200lb+ make it at least 55in not more than 57in and cut off the bottom.
I have attached a PowerPoint file showing the relative dimensions of a
couple of rudder options. In that document I suggest cutting the top of the
rudder stock. Now I recommend cutting off the blade.
I have often thought that the CB top offcut might be somehow fabricated into
blocks for the cb case with a little ingenuity and poured epoxy/ bladetight.
G
PS, just a reminder there is lots of very interesting things for builders
in the catzooks archive. I recommend spending a day and reading it all top
to bottom. Save the parts that you think you will need.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark White" <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: Tiller Layup & Centerboard and Rudder layup
Greg,
The instructions say the finished centerboard is 54"
long, the blank is 62". What end do you cut off?
What is the finished size of the rudder? What end do you cut off?
Everything else seems clear.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Roger Wright" <rowr@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Mark" <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Tiller Layup & Centerboard and Rudder layup
> Its new but just basically an edited version of Brams How To, easier to
> read. Ill have to edit it to take into account Marks discovery that it
is
> not clear even though it has been cleaned up a bit. I'll send a copy to
you
> tonight.
>
> Greg
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Wright" <rowr@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2005 3:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Tiller Layup & Centerboard and Rudder layup
>
>
> > Greg, do you have that 5 page handout electronically, or is it the
same
> > one that you sent me some time ago, I am about to make another set of
> > blades.
> > regards
> > Roger
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: "Rob DesMarais, D.C." <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx>;
<swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 1:12 PM
> > Subject: Re: Tiller Layup & Centerboard and Rudder layup
> >
> >
> > Tiller Layup,
> > In contact with the foam, one layer of hybrid braided tube or hybrid
tape
> > (the bi-directional type). Two pieces of unidirectional 3 inch wide
carbon
> > tape placed longitudinally, make the overlap on the top and bottom
> > surfaces, then a layer of carbon braided tube that extends 24 inches
from
> > the fat end towards the thin end, and finally a layer of braided
carbon
> > tube on the outside. Lightly sand smooth and cover the outside with
> > 207special hardener / epoxy. You can remove the foam internally with
> > acetone if need be especially at the forward and back ends. Fill the
ends
> > with epoxy 410/graphite to 1) strengthen the joint to the cassette,
> > 2)
> > provide a small exit hole on the top front surface for shock cord
> > exit
for
> > the extension keeper system. Drill and ream a hole in the underside
of
> > the tiller about 8-12 inches back from the front. You can pass 2
pieces
of
> > shock cord through the tiller from the bottom hole and out through
> > the
> > hole in the front of the tiller, connect to the extensions. Tension
the
> > shock cord and tie a knot in the bottom just outside the hole.
> > Greg
> >
> > PS Mark you received a 5 page illustrated handout on making CB and
rudders
> > with your cores.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Rob DesMarais, D.C.
> > To: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 2:48 PM
> > Subject: Tiller Layup
> >
> >
> > How many layers of carbon would you use or what is the recommend
layup?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Rob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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Rudder Blades.ppt
Description: MS-Powerpoint presentation
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