Could one just use a Flush Trim Router Bit and change the roller bearing a
1/16? or an 1/8? to accomplish this? Are their sections of the bulkhead
that shouldn?t be reduced? Or are you just talking about the tops of the
bulkheads? If the bottom is cut down to compensate for the hybrid/epoxy
build up wouldn?t this accomplish part of the ¼??
Rob
Ken and all,
It's good you brought this up as it'll refresh some memories.
A note of reminder from previous posts regarding the centerboard trunk.
As you will all recall, I sent out some posts that suggested that the tops
of the bulkheads be cut down 1/4" to lower the deck and to make the gunwale
flange protrude below the hull a little further. This also reduces buoyancy
when it's on its' side a bit as well (a good thing). This issue is caused
in part by the thickness added by the glass on the deck and hull and in part
by the propensity that all of us have to cut bulkheads just outside of the
lines.
The centerboard trunk pattern was made with this in mind because it's not
just a matter of whacking off the top of the trunk (the insert block would
get too thin). It is designed to accommodate the cut down bulkheads.
In conclusion, the mast step area does get the horizontal piece shown to
double the thickness in that area but will still be 1/4" too low until you
cut/sand the tops of the bulkheads down to match. Please avoid installing
your deck until you've cut these bulkheads down. You boat will measure but
you won't have a good gunwale flange to use when righting the boat after a
capsize.
Best regards,
Bram
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