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To: |
Christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx |
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Subject: |
Re: Spartite details and tiller extension stoppers. |
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From: |
BDally6107@xxxxxxx |
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Date: |
Mon, 7 Feb 2005 00:59:41 EST |
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Full-name: |
BDally6107 |
Christian and others,
It's too early to tell if the new stoppers will work out. I think the shock
cord is far better for those just starting because you are more likely to
experience poor lateral trim more often (a diplomatic way of saying that you
won't be keeping it as flat as you should). There are some other issues that
need to be worked out with the stoppers. The main thing with the shock cord
is to make sure there are no sharp corners that will cut or weaken the rubber.
I'm new with the Spartite as well so we are learning together. Here is how
I now think it should be done.
1. Use a good paste wax to polish your blade first.
2. Put the centerboard in the boat with the blocks installed and make a
line to mark the bottom of the boat on both sides of the blade. The blade
should be up a three inches. After doing the bottom of the boat, mark the top
of
the top insert block on the blade as well. Be careful to mark all the way
around the blade precisely without moving it.
3. Remove the blade and the insert blocks.
4. Precisely place a piece of plastic packing tape on the line all the way
around the blade (on the lower side). Use the Vaseline to lube the blade
right down to the top of the tape and up four inches. Don't get vasiline on
the
tape.
5. Slide the lower block onto the blade and precisely place the block flush
with the top of the tape--evenly spaced on both sides and fore and aft. The
board needs to be secured vertically in place with tape or clamps. Use a few
small dabs of hot glue to hold it the insert block in place flush with the
tape (you'll be gluing it to the tape). Use masking tape to seal the gap shut
by placing half of its' width on the tape that is already there and the
other half across the bottom of the block. Make sure there are no holes or
leaks.
6. Suck two syringe fulls of the main material out of the can and squirt it
into a cup. With a different new syringe sucked half full with hardener,
squirt it into the cup, mix and use the last syringe to fill the gap between
the blade and the block. Allow to cure for one hour and remove the complete
block. Use a knife to bevel back and clean up the lower edge.
7. Turn the blade upside down and repeat the process on the top block.
I think this will work better than the way I did it (I used the clay and it
made an uneven job since I could not tell how far the clay was migrating up
the gap. Do give us you comments when you're done.
Best regards,
Bram
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