To: | Roger Wright <rowr@xxxxxxxxx> |
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Subject: | Re: Cleat bevel blocks and screws |
From: | Christian Rasmussen <Christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> |
Date: | Sun, 04 Sep 2005 13:20:15 -0400 |
Cc: | swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx |
In-reply-to: | <004201c5b169$6936ab00$d9b535c6@Rslaptop> |
References: | <004201c5b169$6936ab00$d9b535c6@Rslaptop> |
I have ripped the cleat bevel block off a number of times, so idealy it
should be backed all the way under the deck. That might be a bit hard to
do though. I ended up glassing the bevel block to the deck. E.g. use
fillet/tape on all sides. I do think that this bevel block could be replaced my a simple eye with two RF20100 blocks. I think this would work since there is always some tension on the cunningham. But I suppose it could look a little odd with just one bevel block on the deck. Christian Roger Wright wrote: For those of you fitting the cleat bevel blocks (the ones that go on either side of the CB hole) You need to re-inforce the holes and use RF20151 A's, not RF20151's. The RF 20151's can only take a #6 wood screw directly into the wood of the bevel blocks. We are placing a large force on the cunningham block and this could pull out of the wood if it uses a #6 screw. The ideal solution would be to put an 8-32 T-nut under the cleat bevel blocks to help with the load.
smime.p7s |
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