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Re: Cleat bevel blocks and screws

To: Roger Wright <rowr@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cleat bevel blocks and screws
From: Christian Rasmussen <Christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2005 13:20:15 -0400
Cc: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
In-reply-to: <004201c5b169$6936ab00$d9b535c6@Rslaptop>
References: <004201c5b169$6936ab00$d9b535c6@Rslaptop>
I have ripped the cleat bevel block off a number of times, so idealy it should be backed all the way under the deck. That might be a bit hard to do though. I ended up glassing the bevel block to the deck. E.g. use fillet/tape on all sides.

I do think that this bevel block could be replaced my a simple eye with two RF20100 blocks. I think this would
work since there is always some tension on the cunningham. But I suppose it could look a little odd with
just one bevel block on the deck.


Christian


Roger Wright wrote:


For those of you fitting the cleat bevel blocks (the ones that go on either side of the CB hole) You need to re-inforce the holes and use RF20151 A's, not RF20151's. The RF 20151's can only take a #6 wood screw directly into the wood of the bevel blocks. We are placing a large force on the cunningham block and this could pull out of the wood if it uses a #6 screw. The ideal solution would be to put an 8-32 T-nut under the cleat bevel blocks to help with the load.

Roger



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