Re: Fairing nearly complete - a couple of questions

[Robert Harper <rharper@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I would pull the screws first and fill them while you are filling the gaps. If 
you fill them when you put the glass on, you will either have to fill them and 
fair them prior to putting the glass on or you will end up having filler come up 
into the cloth and end up with a small divot.

I used to save the very fine saw dust from the orbital sander and mix it 50/50 
with silica or micro balloons. This will keep the color close to matching the 
strips. If you use 100% sawdust, it will be very dark. If you make the filler a 
bit dry and work it in well with a spatula/knife, it will be easier to sand with 
a lower % of epoxy. I did not like wood filler because it does not hold as well 
as the epoxy and can work out while finish sanding.

Don't worry about the sweat landing on the strips. It sounds like it is hot 
enough to dry very fast. If you leave a little blood there too, you can brag 
about all the blood and sweat that went into such a beautiful boat.

I'll bet the true Ausie will hit the water before the transplant.

Steve Nichols wrote:

> I have nearly finished fairing the hull before putting on the flare. I 
> enclose a picture. It is really rewarding to see the strips change into 
> a nice smooth hull shape. The only problem I have had is it is Mid 
> Summer over here and frequently the temp in the garage has been 36 to 38 
> degrees (mid high nineties) and it is hard to keep sweat off the cedar.
>
> My questions in regard to the filling process are
>
>  
>
> 1)  Is it best to fill the larger gaps first before the first overall 
> fill with the epoxy?
>
> 2)  Have people bothered making the fill for the gaps wood coloured for 
> practice or just gone with the fairing compound as this part of the hull 
> will be painted?
>
> 3) I have the hull fixed to the assembly in a few areas with screws. 
> When doing the fill coats have people left out these areas and done them 
> just prior to glassing? I am concerned that I could inadvertantly bond 
> the screws to the cedar which could lead to hassles getting them out.
>
>  
>
> By the way the string I used under the staples to help remove them was a 
> great timesaver. I simply pulled on end of the string and out they 
> popped. It was a good idea to wear eye protection whilst doing this. One 
> good tug could remove 10 –15 staples at a time. Those that didn’t come 
> fully out could easily get pulled by pliers as they were raised up.
>
>  
>
> Cheers,
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Steve**
>
>  
>
>
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--
Don't be good. Have lots of fun.
Sail fast, live large, and love life.
Robert Harper


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