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Re: Finally begining to get caught up

To: Christian Rasmussen <Christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Finally begining to get caught up
From: Steve Nichols <aussieswift@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2006 08:51:12 +1000 (EST)
Cc: BDally6107@xxxxxxx, al.pritchard@xxxxxxxxxx
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In-reply-to: <44281600.8030501@rasmussen.org>
I really like the sound of this method. I launch from a ramp so the lighter the 
trolley the better. I am currently constructing the cradle to flip the hull 
onto and it is a fair size job. In addition to the time saving that you have 
achieved I really like the way that you ensure that the hull maintains the 
correct shape after removal from the stations. I am currently stressing about 
this issue!
   
  Maybe I should think about these advanced methods of buiding for the second 
one that I build!
   
  I look forward to hearing how it turns out.
   
  How do you deal with the strongback issue as they go through holes on the 
normal stations? Do you put holes in the permanent station 6 & 8 bulkheads in 
the same place? 
   
  Steve  

Christian Rasmussen <Christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
  
Laying the strips straight is how I built 073. I found it to be faster 
because there is no fitting, but it also seems
the strips conforms better to the curves so you spend less time with 
screews and large washers. In fact the
only strip fitting I had to do, was the "kidneys" on deck.

Another speed tip I did on that boat, was to prebuild bulkhead 6,8 and 
the daggerboard slot, then make it part
of the jig. Those were vacum bagged with kevlar on the edge. When I 
layed a strip here I used epoxy mix to permanently
bond the hull. With the daggerboard/mast step box I moved the sides out 
1/4" and made them full size. Then added a
a frame inside the box. It seems this is faster/lighter than the 
original method, however you obviously have to be careful with how much
preasure you put on the jack screews holding the board blocks in place. 
Most of the force here is sideways so that should
be ok. I also added extra layers of carbon/kevlar underneath the deck 
where the mast step is, since the walls of the
mast step are futher apart.

The advantage of the built-in 6,8/daggerbox method is that when you flip 
the hull it stays in place. No time spend fitting that in.
No need to make a craddle, unless you want one. I launch from the beach 
and I found my 015 craddle to just be a lot of
extra weight. Probably need one if you are a dock launcher. You do have 
a to cut more hybrid for the inside, since you have
to do each 4 section individually. Although there might be no relation, 
I beleive this method (which makes the hull form stay in place)
allowed me to fit the deck with very little cutting/adjustement.

Please keep in mind that my experiment is just that, and only time will 
show if I screewed up. So I am not trying to encourage anyone
to use this method, just sharing my built experience. The built-in 
bulkhead method is something being used by many custom boat builders, so
I feel the method is somewhat prooven and safe. The boat was also vacum 
bagged (Not a time saving tip), including using 9oz S-glass on
the exterior hull, but it is still somewhat underweight (15-20lbs) So I 
need to find a way to add some weight.

Christian




BDally6107@xxxxxxx wrote:

> In a message dated 3/27/2006 7:16:58 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> al.pritchard@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> I broke down and bought a digital camera, so Im starting to get 
> better shots of the boats under construction. Funny thought, Stacey 
> seems to have issues with me taking it to the barn.
>
> If your interested, you can find them here; http://www.flickr.com/
> photos/loft42/
>
> Eventually Ill get these posted on SA. Im feeling sort of bad for
> not 
> participating in that thread.
>
> /Al
>
> This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
> visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
>
> Al,
> 
> Great shots. I envy all the room you have to work. Can hardly wait 
> to get my new shop built (24x36 2 stories). I've been working in my 
> garage which is 20 by 24 but with a lot of other crap in the road.
> 
> I noticed that you ran all of the strips straight--even on the 
> bottom. Let us know how that is working out. We've seen a number 
> built with straight strips on the deck and tack top, but none with a 
> straight bottom. Do you think you saved a fair amount of time? Show 
> us some close shots of the chines so we can get an idea of how you're 
> handling that intersection.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Bram



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