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Re: Milling Strips.

To: <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Milling Strips.
From: "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 10:04:00 -0400
Cc: <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
References: <Law14-OE18iwAY0pi8Z0000616b@hotmail.com> <20031015214400.A26195@fishlick.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hi Greg  I've been following your suggestion here, and I have a question
for
> you.
> Would you suggest cutting out the holes for the strongback as well,
> and routing that hole into the actual particle board?  Or would it be
> better to drill guide holes (as for the centerline and waterline)?
> I'm wondering if cutting out the large strongback holes will leave the
> hardboard rigid enough to rout around.
> Thanks  Warren

I think it would be OK on some of the larger sections but on the smaller
ones it would be a problem.
I have made separate small templates for the both large and the small
strongback cutouts. On the hardboard section templates I drilled several
small holes in the control lines and on all 4 corners of the cutouts so
that I can extend an automatic pencil through the hardboard and make a
precise mark with my pencil for the control lines and the position of the
cutouts. This took a bit of extra time but went fairly quickly when I used a
prick punch for a pilot. I also measure the section for symmetry before I
cut the cut-outs to make sure it is Kosher. I have routed most of the
cutouts but then I discovered that I have placed the screws in the
strongbacks too close to the edges to use a roundover bit on the strongbacks
without removing a lot of screws. Therefore I used my jig saw to knock off
the radius left by the router in the particle board sections . This was very
quick and easy and did not need to be really precise.

I am happy that I have a good set of templates for my next swift or to help
someone else get started faster. Even if  the particle board sections are
sacrificial, I think the strongbacks are recyclable too.

Bram has given us the section numbers (#6 and #10)  for the dolly contact
points. It may help to rule a line parallel to these sections waterline to
define the bottom of the supports that will make the dolly. Keep the
particle board offcuts from these section and they can be used as a template
for the dolly supports. I tried to calculate how to make mine deep enough a
support at section 6 so that the hulls deck would be very very slightly "up
at the bow" when the boat and dolly is on a level surface, taking in to
account how big my dolly wheels will be etc. I couldn't tell you if this
will be ultimately successful though I think it is worth it considering my
experience with the 49er on our beach.
Greg Ryan
Swift Solo USA009 - Rose



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