To: | wfs03@xxxxxxx, BDally6107@xxxxxxx |
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Subject: | Re: Rigging Questions |
From: | "Robert Harper" <rharper@xxxxxxxxxxxx> |
Date: | Mon, 11 Jun 2007 07:17:42 -0600 |
Cc: | swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx |
In-reply-to: | <8C97A3EE7AB54CE-E30-717@WEBMAIL-RA19.sysops.aol.com> |
References: | <c77.13285f85.339e28c9@aol.com> <8C97A3EE7AB54CE-E30-717@WEBMAIL-RA19.sysops.aol.com> |
You need the haliard to pull the headboard as high as it possibly can. The more load the mast crane takes, the longer your track will last. Shorten one end or the other as needed. I still find myself shortening the haliard once in a while.
I use the bottom hole on the jib clew board and I don't often go more than about six inches up on the forestay. One way I found to set up the releativity control is to set the main for all the way in with the bridal just at the boom. Then adjust the relativity until the jib trim matches the main. You can easily fine tune on the water but mark this spot to start with. As Bram has said before, if the jib is too loose, it will be almost impossible to fall off if there is any breeze. Regarding the spin retrieval, do you recommend knots between the patches to assist with the douse?Double edged sword here. The battons are maybe a bit stiff but you need them tight enough to pull the vertical wrinkles out and then they have so much tension, they don't self pop. Putting a little vang on will help a lot. With the vang on, when you pull on the boom, the sail just twists. If you pull a little extra cunningham on to flatten the sail, this will also reduce the presure on the battons. Even in a good breeze, I have to manually pop the battons when gybing. If the battens don't pop easily on tack, are the tensioners too tight? -- Live large, love lots, and sail fast! The mark of who you are is determined by what you do when you don't have to do it. USA 050 Fugu 77959 Wasabi Robert Harper This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions, visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/ |
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