Warren said........The two 3/4" pieces the inserts screw into are bonded in
with 4200, correct? (i.e. they need to be removable later)
Christain said.....Correct. try only and use the 4200 on the outside edge.
(not on the insert side of the block) That way you can use a razor blade and
cut them out.
Warren, you should confirm which pieces you are talking about here. The
centreboard trunk ends are not removable and are solidly bonded to the
centreboard trunk. There are two loose blocks (roughly 2" by 14" to start
with) with the shape of the centreboard cut out the middle, which are then
screwed into the centreboard trunk ends. (These are the blocks that
Christian is referring to) These are then given a coating of 4200 on the
outside, but you should have an absolutely perfect fit here as the entire
load is being transferred from your centreboard to the hull skin at that
point. Just remember that when you are standing on your centreboard trying
to right the boat, your entire weight is acting on a moment at the end of
the CB. If there is a point load anywhere in the system, you are going to be
loading up a huge force on that point load.
If you are going to be using Gregs foils, I have a program set up in my CNC
to cut the blocks with the centreboard hole. These need to be really
accurate as well, as once again, the entire load is getting transferred to
the skin through less than 1/4" of cedar in the block. Give me a shout if I
can help with cutting them out for you. I cut the blocks slightly large, but
to the right profile and you can then wrap your centreboard in wetted out
glass and insert it into the blocks to get a perfect fit.
regards
Roger
www.aquiloboats.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <WFS03@xxxxxxx>
Cc: <christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>;
<swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: Centerboard trunk building primer?
> Bill, these pictures are great, thanks for posting them (I was
> actually going to ask for someone to do this, just because it makes it
> so much easier to describe what's going on). They have caused me to
> think up a few more questions:
>
> 1) It looks like you have multiple pieces on top of the sides at the
> mast step -- two, correct? (on my hull it looks like 2 will fit)
> 2) in the actual c/b trunk, it looks like the 3/4" pieces have been
> bonded in. Is that right, or do you have additional hybrid "caps" at
> the front and back of the trunk? (ie. inside those caps, the 3/4"
> pieces are there)
> 3) Tom had installed the 1" thick block on the bottom? Without
> cutting out the hole in the hull? (I wonder how he was going to find
> the block later when he did cut the hole..) If the trunk had been
> true, could you have drilled through the block to find the right
> location?
> 4) once the c/b trunk is installed, what is the best way to cut the
> right hole in the hull for the blocks? What are other people doing
> for this?
>
> Again, thanks for everyone's help. It's these moments during
> construction that I like to ensure I understand *exactly* what I'm
> trying to do. ;-) (I actually dreamed about c/b trunks last night...)
>
> Warren
>
> On Tue, Oct 19, 2004 at 09:13:33PM -0400, WFS03@xxxxxxx wrote:
> > Christian,
> > One item to add to your comments regarding the upper and lower blocks
in
> > the CB trunk, is that they should not be installed until after the
holes
> > in the deck and hull are cut. I took over the construction of USA020
from
> > Tom and Felix, and Tom had installed the CB Trunk with the lower
block in
> > place. At that point, there was no way to remove the lower block
without
> > either ripping into the hull bottom or removing the entire CB trunk.
My
> > decision was made for me, as the CB trunk was not straight and true,
so I
> > had to carefully Dremel-cut the fillets away and remove the trunk and
> > starboard half of station eight. Bram suggested that running duct
tape
> > down each side of the hybrid outside the fillets would allow me to
sand
> > the excess epoxy away with a palm sander without damaging the cloth.
It
> > worked like a charm. I used the same technique to remove the 2" trim
> > pieces from the top and bottom of the CB Trunk, as they were not
installed
> > properly. The CB Trunk was easier to reinstall with the 2" beveled
trim
> > pieces off, allowing me to true up the trunk and get a tight fit for
the
> > beveled trim pieces on the top and bottom.
> --
> warren stevens - catzooks.com
>
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