Warren,
See my responses to your new questions below:
In a message dated 10/19/04 11:09:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
1) It looks like you have multiple pieces on top of the sides at the
mast step -- two, correct? (on my hull it looks like 2 will fit)
Answer: When Tom originally installed the trunk the bow end was lower than
station 6. In removing the trunk to repair the fit, I lost some height, so
one additional thickness of cedar/hybrid filled the gap. This may add a
little
weight to the installation, but makes a thicker base for the mast step. The
original trunk top would not have touched the installed deck.
2) in the actual c/b trunk, it looks like the 3/4" pieces have been
bonded in. Is that right, or do you have additional hybrid "caps" at
the front and back of the trunk? (ie. inside those caps, the 3/4"
pieces are there)
Answer: The 3/4" vertical end pieces of the trunk are laminated with Hybrid
on the inside and outside of the trunk, and have small fillets on the inside
of the trunk to permanently bond them together.
3) Tom had installed the 1" thick block on the bottom? Without
cutting out the hole in the hull? (I wonder how he was going to find
the block later when he did cut the hole..) If the trunk had been
true, could you have drilled through the block to find the right
location?
Answer: If the trunk had been true, a speed bit could have used to roughly
locate the CB trunk hole in the hull by drilling in multiple spots in the
bottom of the trunk from above with a long drill extension. I would have
carefully removed the rest with a Dremel cutting wheel from the hull side.
The
lower block was screwed into the bottom of the trunk, so I would have had to
locate the screw heads also. This would not have been fun and the blocks
would
have been destroyed.
4) once the c/b trunk is installed, what is the best way to cut the
right hole in the hull for the blocks? What are other people doing
for this?
Answer: I have not gotten to this stage yet, but suggest that you drill
from above, down through the inside of the CB trunk with a long drill
extension,
close to each of the corners. Use a drill bit that is large enough to
create holes for your saber saw to get started and far enough away from the
inside
overhang of the CB trunk beveled pieces that the saw blade movement will not
damage the trunk. Draw lines on the hull to connect the holes and use the
saber saw to remove the hull material. This will give you a rough hole that
you can properly size with a rasp and sanding block to fit the lower block
tightly against the hull, but leaving a filler recess of 1/16" between the
lower
block and the CB trunk for the silly putty. See Bram's new instructions for
the CB insert blocks. The cut edges of hole in the hull must be sealed with
epoxy. The critical point is that the CB does not touch the inside if the
trunk to avoid point loading and breaking the CB or trunk. The same process
can be used to locate the top CB trunk hole once the deck is installed by
drilling pilot holes from bottom side through the deck.
Bill Scheumann
USA020 and USA040
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