Gee, again.
What an awesome looking shape that is. I guess this is one of the few boats
that I've seen that look just as beautiful when it's upside down. Good thing
the boat can be tipped over while sailing . whenever you get sick of the
complexity of your deck layout :o).
I agree with Mark and Bram. Unless you are vacuum-bagging the glass onto
your hull there is no reason to get crazy before you glass and
graphite/epoxy the bottom of the hull. No big gains to be made at this
stage.
It's also a good idea to wait until you've glassed the inside. I know
whoever is going to use those plastic staples is going to hate me when he is
trying to get the boat of the moulds, but . the strips won't flex as much
either, while you are fairing and glassing. But don't take this decision
lightly. You might end up with a few terrible tool marks on the inside and
some of your moulds might truly suffer, if you don't use the right tools and
don't spend two cents on two extra bags of patience for that day.
Another way to prevent your hull from flexing too much is using as little
pressure as possible while you are sanding and change your sandpaper more
frequently. I know this is almost impossible when you are trying to sand the
graphite/epoxy. You need to use some pressure to get the sandpaper to work
at all. I know it's tempting to get the bottom all perfect before you
continue onto another project like the inside and deck, but. you should wait
until you've married the deck and the hull together. Things might settle and
twist a bit while you do that. I guess Bill could sing a song or two about
that. I think Tom and I started on fairing the bottom, but stopped when we
considered that we will make the awful experience of a lot of little things
changing while the deck is put on. Good thing we don't have to cotton-caulk
the seams or deck on this design . thanks Bram :o).
Have fun.
Felix :o)
_____
Von: Mark White [mailto:mwhite@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Gesendet: Freitag, 6. Januar 2006 17:14
An: BDally6107@xxxxxxx; RobertKi@xxxxxxxx; f.schliebitz@xxxxxx;
swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Betreff: Re: This ain't fair!!!
I stopped fairing after glassing because I noticed that I was sanding more
off over the stations than in-between the stations, because the hull flexes
in-between the stations. The hull becomes much more rigid after glassing
the inside. Here is a picture of what it looks like before final fairing.
I had some filling to do as you can see to fair the hull. I was afraid I
was going to sand too much off over the stations, something you may want to
watch.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: BDally6107@xxxxxxx
To: RobertKi@xxxxxxxx ; f.schliebitz@xxxxxx ; swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: This ain't fair!!!
Robert,
Thanks for the idea.
One of the issues that we are always fighting is the different sanding rates
cause by various fillers and epoxy verses the cedar itself. Most of our
really serious final faring is done after the hull bottom is glassed. The
water contact surfaces are coated with either epoxy/graphite powder or
colored two part linear. In both cases, this is usually done after using
some fairing filler over any low spots in the glassed hull finish. I only
point this out because I believe you are talking about final perfection and
to get too involved in that before glassing may not be the best use of time.
It is a bit of a question regarding where or if you should get really
serious with fairing or fairing / smoothness (1200 grit) to the extreme. I
suspect that 10 years from now we will really be spending some time getting
them perfect. I currently have one boat from VMG that has the most perfect
bottom I've even seen (on a boat) and since it has been sailed only a few
times, we have determined if it matters that much (probably will be too many
other variables to tell for several years yet). That boat is just now being
sold.
Thanks again for the idea and input. Let me know when you want to give a
Swift a shot. Where are you located?
Best regards,
Bram
In a message dated 1/5/2006 5:52:06 AM Pacific Standard Time,
RobertKi@xxxxxxxx writes:
Coming from the J24 fleet in Newport RI where we're all psycho about fair
blades and bottoms . . .
Has anyone tried misting the hull with an extremely fine coat of colored
sanding primer or soft paint to assist in fairing? A couple of the various
epoxy primer products out there are thick enough to not be pulled into the
pores of the wood, yet "thin" enough to be really easy to sand. We do a
similar thing with our J24s with a type of diluted ink while wet-sanding
finish bottom coats.
The idea is that the ink will quickly be removed via sanding from all high
spots, leaving the low spots colored. If you could apply this method to a
pre-glassed swift, I imagine the results would be even more dramatic
(striped
hull for a while). One would have to be very disciplined not to simply
attack
the low spots, but it might be possible and would produce a more uniform
thickness hull. It is also a technique that allows you to gauge how good
you
are being about moving about the boat continuously as you fair, in order to
bring the entire core thickness down to the low spots.
Anyone experiment/attempt this?
SIDE BAR Skiff question; widely accepted amongst J24 owners is that the
fairness of the forward half of the hull, keel, and rudder are the most
important, followed by the aft half of the hull. With a skiff being so
focused on planing and utilizing to a greater degree the powerful aft
section
of the hull, is this focus shifted to the fairness of the aft sections of
the
hull and the exit?
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