my channel isn't as deep as it should have been, and it'ts done...before
routing you should stack the 2 blocks that mount near the transom bar to
determine the depth of the cut...hope to find a double block that isn't as
tall as the 2 togther...maybe rf662.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Rob DesMarais, D.C." <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Toe Rail Channel Suggestions
I just did this step (twice). First, make sure you route a channel
that's deep enough (duh, that's my twice).
I did as the manual suggested and used plastic around a strip of
cedar. The first time around, the channel I had routed was a bit
wider than the strip, and as a result the strip curved slightly. The
second time around, I also wrapped a layer of thin foam around the
strips (the foam was what my strips were shipped in). This worked
perfectly - the foam took up all the extra space, no gaps, nothing.
When you put in the thin filler into the routed grove, make sure it's
really thin, otherwise you get gaps. And use plenty of clamps.
Warren
On 07/11/05, Rob DesMarais, D.C. <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> For those routing the toe rail channel and glassing it. I found duct tape
> to be a poor choice in getting the strip out after the epoxy dries. I
also
> think (will do on toe rail #2) allowing the 2" strip of glass to harden
over
> the strip and than placing it into the groove will make it easier to do
and
> remove.
>
>
>
> Thirdly, if you have to chisel it out and break it off in pieces, taking
the
> allen wrench from your delta bench sander and grinding the small end down
to
> a chisel point, and than hammering it into the cedar strip, will break it
> off in pieces and you can pull it out with a pair of pliers.
>
>
>
> Rob
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