I will say that when I reach spots where I want to be very sure of the
work I'm doing (bonding in the c/b trunk, drilling holes in my deck) I
slow waaaay down. It's hard to re-drill holes in better spots.
On 07/11/05, Mark White <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Mine are about the same depth, but not bonded...and they will stay as they
> are...I've got this problem with going backwards, I'm sure there is some
> kind of therapy for this dissorder...isn't the learning curve great.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Mark White" <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:45 AM
> Subject: Re: Toe Rail Channel Suggestions
>
>
> that's a good point. It's too late for me... I've bonded them on.
> (but I think it's deep enough this time, and entire strip fit in the
> groove I routed, so they're more than 3/4" deep...)
>
> On 07/11/05, Mark White <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > my channel isn't as deep as it should have been, and it'ts done...before
> > routing you should stack the 2 blocks that mount near the transom bar to
> > determine the depth of the cut...hope to find a double block that isn't as
> > tall as the 2 togther...maybe rf662.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: "Rob DesMarais, D.C." <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Cc: <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: Toe Rail Channel Suggestions
> >
> >
> > I just did this step (twice). First, make sure you route a channel
> > that's deep enough (duh, that's my twice).
> >
> > I did as the manual suggested and used plastic around a strip of
> > cedar. The first time around, the channel I had routed was a bit
> > wider than the strip, and as a result the strip curved slightly. The
> > second time around, I also wrapped a layer of thin foam around the
> > strips (the foam was what my strips were shipped in). This worked
> > perfectly - the foam took up all the extra space, no gaps, nothing.
> >
> > When you put in the thin filler into the routed grove, make sure it's
> > really thin, otherwise you get gaps. And use plenty of clamps.
> >
> > Warren
> >
> > On 07/11/05, Rob DesMarais, D.C. <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > For those routing the toe rail channel and glassing it. I found duct
> tape
> > > to be a poor choice in getting the strip out after the epoxy dries. I
> > also
> > > think (will do on toe rail #2) allowing the 2" strip of glass to harden
> > over
> > > the strip and than placing it into the groove will make it easier to do
> > and
> > > remove.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thirdly, if you have to chisel it out and break it off in pieces, taking
> > the
> > > allen wrench from your delta bench sander and grinding the small end
> down
> > to
> > > a chisel point, and than hammering it into the cedar strip, will break
> it
> > > off in pieces and you can pull it out with a pair of pliers.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Rob
> >
> > This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
> > visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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