Mine are about the same depth, but not bonded...and they will stay as they
are...I've got this problem with going backwards, I'm sure there is some
kind of therapy for this dissorder...isn't the learning curve great.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Mark White" <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Toe Rail Channel Suggestions
that's a good point. It's too late for me... I've bonded them on.
(but I think it's deep enough this time, and entire strip fit in the
groove I routed, so they're more than 3/4" deep...)
On 07/11/05, Mark White <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> my channel isn't as deep as it should have been, and it'ts done...before
> routing you should stack the 2 blocks that mount near the transom bar to
> determine the depth of the cut...hope to find a double block that isn't as
> tall as the 2 togther...maybe rf662.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Warren Stevens" <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Rob DesMarais, D.C." <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Cc: <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Toe Rail Channel Suggestions
>
>
> I just did this step (twice). First, make sure you route a channel
> that's deep enough (duh, that's my twice).
>
> I did as the manual suggested and used plastic around a strip of
> cedar. The first time around, the channel I had routed was a bit
> wider than the strip, and as a result the strip curved slightly. The
> second time around, I also wrapped a layer of thin foam around the
> strips (the foam was what my strips were shipped in). This worked
> perfectly - the foam took up all the extra space, no gaps, nothing.
>
> When you put in the thin filler into the routed grove, make sure it's
> really thin, otherwise you get gaps. And use plenty of clamps.
>
> Warren
>
> On 07/11/05, Rob DesMarais, D.C. <drrld@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > For those routing the toe rail channel and glassing it. I found duct
tape
> > to be a poor choice in getting the strip out after the epoxy dries. I
> also
> > think (will do on toe rail #2) allowing the 2" strip of glass to harden
> over
> > the strip and than placing it into the groove will make it easier to do
> and
> > remove.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thirdly, if you have to chisel it out and break it off in pieces, taking
> the
> > allen wrench from your delta bench sander and grinding the small end
down
> to
> > a chisel point, and than hammering it into the cedar strip, will break
it
> > off in pieces and you can pull it out with a pair of pliers.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rob
>
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>
>
>
>
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