To: | "Mark White" <mwhite@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>,"Dave Lindsey" <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxx>,<swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx> |
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Subject: | Re: Sail track glue |
From: | "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx> |
Date: | Tue, 15 Aug 2006 10:31:34 -0400 |
References: | <C106B1D7.E2F%lindsey@axionet.com> <026d01c6c070$21a83620$0200a8c0@GalleriaWS1> |
Reply-to: | "Greg Ryan" <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx> |
Mark and Dave, I have a few pieces of track if you just need a small repair
of a foot or two each. I can just give these to you. I also have a tube of
plexus, just need to know whether you are doing a whole track, glue the
whole deck to the hull, or a small repair job. For small jobs you don't
want to buy a whole cartridge, so I'm working on getting it aliquoted into
smaller tubes (valve sealed syringes) the same way I have aliquotted
spartite into 60ml syringe kits and stored them pouch sealed under argon. So BTW if you need spartite and don't want to spend $120 for $20 dollars worth of material then let me know. I have at least 10 kits of spartite in stock. If there is enough demand for plexus I'll buy a new tube of Plexus MA425, to make more kits out of that, how does $25 sound for enough to do a track? Let me know what you need. Jordan, the minimum weight rule is fairly "generous"! I think its easy to build the hull underweight even without peelply methods. I bagged my bulkhead and centercase stock and they came out ridiculously underweight, so I added extra carbon uni (both sides) and hybrid tabbing. On the outside of the boat, there needs to be a thin but generous layer of resin or bog to fair the planing surface, and you probably want the topsides and deck to look nice, so plenty of resin and 2 part poly is on top of them. So I'm thinking, just to keep that in mind, its not really worth getting carried away with starving the resin content just to add lead ingots later on. I recon it does help keep the glass closer to the boat though, and that's good. A lot of weight is gained when the resin soaks into the cedar and I'm not so sure that its very structurally useful compared to the high modulus skins. I tried to reduce that weight by applying a thin layer of resin first then wipe it off with a rag before it has a long time to soak right in. The rags weigh a ton when you group them in the same trash bag. I let the wiped resin gel before I added a thin coat of new resin, much easier to control because the wood didn't eat it up so much, then added the glass. My attempt to keep the resin where I needed it, and where I could remove it if I needed to. Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark White" <mwhite@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: "Dave Lindsey" <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:38 AM Subject: Re: Sail track glue Dave, This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions, visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/ |
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