Re: Sail track glue

["Robert Harper" <rharper@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Food for thought. If you don't seal the carbon/Kevlar well, it will soak  
up water that gets inside the hull. I think it might be better to have a  
little extra resin there than to allow it to soak up a lot of water that  
could migrate through the fibers and cause all kinds of problems.

On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:31:34 -0600, Greg Ryan <gregoryrryan@xxxxxxxxxxx>  
wrote:

> Mark and Dave, I have a few pieces of track if you just need a small  
> repair of a foot or two each.  I can just give these to you. I also have  
> a tube of plexus,  just need to know whether you are doing a whole  
> track, glue the whole deck to the hull,  or a small repair job. For  
> small jobs you don't want to buy a whole cartridge, so I'm working on  
> getting it aliquoted into smaller tubes (valve sealed syringes) the same  
> way I have aliquotted spartite into 60ml syringe kits and stored them  
> pouch sealed under argon.
> So BTW if you need spartite and don't want to spend $120 for $20 dollars  
> worth of material then let me know. I have at least 10 kits of spartite  
> in stock. If there is enough demand for plexus I'll buy a new tube of   
> Plexus MA425, to make more kits out of that, how does $25 sound for  
> enough to do a track? Let me know what you need.
>
>
> Jordan,  the minimum weight rule is fairly "generous"! I think its easy  
> to build the hull underweight even without peelply methods. I bagged my  
> bulkhead and centercase stock and they came out ridiculously  
> underweight, so I added extra carbon uni (both sides) and hybrid  
> tabbing.  On the outside of the boat, there needs to be a thin but  
> generous layer of resin or bog to fair the planing surface, and you  
> probably want the topsides and deck to look nice, so plenty of resin and  
> 2 part poly is on top of them. So I'm thinking, just to keep that in  
> mind, its not really worth getting carried away with starving the resin  
> content just to add lead ingots later on.  I recon it does help keep the  
> glass closer to the boat though, and that's good. A lot of weight is  
> gained when the resin soaks into the cedar and I'm not so sure that its  
> very structurally useful compared to the high modulus skins.  I tried to  
> reduce that weight by applying a thin layer of resin first then wipe it  
> off with a rag before it has a long time to soak right in. The rags  
> weigh a ton when you group them in the same trash bag. I let the wiped  
> resin gel before I added a thin coat of new resin, much easier to  
> control because the wood didn't eat it up so much, then added the glass.  
> My attempt to keep the resin where I needed it, and where I could remove  
> it if I needed to.
> Greg
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark White" <mwhite@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: "Dave Lindsey" <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxx>; <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:38 AM
> Subject: Re: Sail track glue
>
>
> > Dave,
> >
> > I have neither but need both, maybe I could buy glue and we can share?
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Lindsey" <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:03 AM
> > Subject: Sail track glue
> >
> >
> > > Fellow Swift builders,
> > >
> > >     Does anyone have extra sail track glue. Just thought I would ask in
> > case
> > > someone over bought. I have the dispenser gun. Just need glue.
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave Lindsey
> > > CAN 046
>
>
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--
Live large, love lots, and sail fast!
The mark of who you are is determined by what you do when you don't have  
to do it.
USA 050 Fugu
77959 Wasabi
Robert Harper

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