Actually I just did my deck with very few staples, only in the two central
strips under the mast step and the center rail and in the other strips at
stations 1, 2 and 3. The rest are not really under stress. Stations 2-3 will
have the throat and a band of glass and trim paint covering most of them.
Station 1 is covered by paint and goop, it is near enough to the back of the
forestay fitting.
If you are worried about holding things in shape glue some nubs (with holes) on
the underside of the sheet of strips and pull them towards the station
templates with string wound around a drywall screw into the template. Turn the
screw to apply force through the string to keep the sheet of strips in the
right place while you glass the top surface. It will not move much after that.
Same technique can be done with the hull.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark White
To: Mark Boehnke ; swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: staple removal
Mark,
I did the sides of the hull w/o staples, and was going to do the deck also
because I dont like to see the holes, but the deck is under too much stress to
keep every thing in place. So I will settle for the wing tops being
staple-less.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Boehnke
To: WFS03@xxxxxxx ; keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ;
Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Robert Harper
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: staple removal
hey all....here are some pics that I took of my staple-less canoe. I built
my boat one strip at a time with Titebond (red cap). It took a while for sure,
but the result was a super clean hull w/o those staple holes across the hull
every 12". I know...you can't see 'em from 15' away, but most people who love
the wood boat always come up for a closer inspection.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Harper
To: WFS03@xxxxxxx ; keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ;
Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: staple removal
Keith et all.
I remember reading how to the staple free stripping from a kayak/canoe
builder. My understanding of how this works would lend a very slow
stripping process unless you had some fast curing glue. You would have a
hard time putting on more than three or four strips at a sitting. It also
increased the number of clamps and other hardware needed. I've attached a
small graphic that is very crude but you may get the idea.
You would drill screws into the forms every so often and then use a shock
cord or a strap to hold the strips to the forms. This would probably
involve a lot of shims for the convex contors.
By the way I had a great sail yesterday. I tried to chase down the "lead
mines" that were having a long race and almost caught up. The wind was
too
light to trap out to weather and my knees couldn't take it anymore so I
turned around an had a nice 8 mile run back to the marina. When I could
get out on the wire it was a great ride. 6 - 10 knots of breeze and flat
water.
For what it's worth, don't use aluminum rivets with the carbon spars. The
carbon and stainless fittings will eat the rivets like I've never seen
before. I have had several rivets fail now in only a couple of months.
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 07:16:59 -0600, <WFS03@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Keith,
> There is a staple gun available that shoots polyester staples which are
> light brown in color. You simply sand off the tops and thus the holes
> are
> already filled. The hull or deck is then cut off of the forms from
> below with a
> razor blade, once the s-glass has been installed. This technique was
> used in
> building USA020. For anyone interested, contact me for the
> distributor's
> address.
> Alternatively, the builder in Belgium claims to have built his
Swift-Solo
> without using any staples or screws to hold the strips in place. I
> would be
> interested in learning more about the technique.
> Bill Scheumann
> USA020 and USA040
> In a message dated 9/18/05 11:18:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> The other thing to do is staple over a piece of twine or string. Have
> a piece of string on each frame or station. Then just pull the string
> and the staples come out. Another way it to staple through plastic
> strapping tape (you need an air stapler to be sure you have enough
> "push" in the staple). String is simplest. If the staple doesn't come
> out you have a great crown in the staple to grip and pull out.
>
> K
> On Sep 18, 2005, at 7:42 PM, Mark White wrote:
>
>> To anyone still using steel staples, the best and fastest way I found
>> to remove them is to cut a piece of hard wood (I used hickory) 3/8 X
>> 3/8 X about 4" long, and sand a sharp angle on it, then simply drive
>> it under the staple and keep on driving. There is little or no damage
>> to the strips and it goes fairly quickly. You will have to resharpen
>> it every 30 to 50 staples or so.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>>
>> Mark<P9180004.JPG>This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For
>> unsubscribe instructions,
>> visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
>
>
>
>
>
--
Don't be good. Have LOTS of fun.
Live large, love life, and sail fast.
Robert Harper USA 050 "Fugu"
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