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Re: staple removal

To: "Mark Boehnke" <mboehnke@xxxxxxxxxxx>,<swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: staple removal
From: "Mark White" <Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 14:05:21 -0600
References: <12a.65eb1d29.3060144b@aol.com> <op.sxcumjfltozfut@rd2.rd.iat-cti.com> <06c101c5bd2d$244aff80$0a00030a@MBOEHNKE2000>
Mark,

I did the sides of the hull w/o staples, and was going to do the deck also 
because I dont like to see the holes, but the deck is under too much stress to 
keep every thing in place.  So I will settle for the wing tops being 
staple-less.

Mark
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mark Boehnke 
  To: WFS03@xxxxxxx ; keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; 
Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Robert Harper 
  Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 9:16 AM
  Subject: Re: staple removal


  hey all....here are some pics that I took of my staple-less canoe.  I built 
my boat one strip at a time with Titebond (red cap).  It took a while for sure, 
but the result was a super clean hull w/o those staple holes across the hull 
every 12". I know...you can't see 'em from 15' away, but most people who love 
the wood boat always come up for a closer inspection.

  Mark
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Robert Harper 
    To: WFS03@xxxxxxx ; keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; 
Mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Cc: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx 
    Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:00 AM
    Subject: Re: staple removal


    Keith et all.

    I remember reading how to the staple free stripping from a kayak/canoe  
    builder. My understanding of how this works would lend a very slow  
    stripping process unless you had some fast curing glue. You would have a  
    hard time putting on more than three or four strips at a sitting. It also  
    increased the number of clamps and other hardware needed. I've attached a  
    small graphic that is very crude but you may get the idea.

    You would drill screws into the forms every so often and then use a shock  
    cord or a strap to hold the strips to the forms. This would probably  
    involve a lot of shims for the convex contors.

    By the way I had a great sail yesterday. I tried to chase down the "lead  
    mines" that were having a long race and almost caught up. The wind was too  
    light to trap out to weather and my knees couldn't take it anymore so I  
    turned around an had a nice 8 mile run back to the marina. When I could  
    get out on the wire it was a great ride. 6 - 10 knots of breeze and flat  
    water.

    For what it's worth, don't use aluminum rivets with the carbon spars. The  
    carbon and stainless fittings will eat the rivets like I've never seen  
    before. I have had several rivets fail now in only a couple of months.


    On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 07:16:59 -0600, <WFS03@xxxxxxx> wrote:

    > Keith,
    > There is a staple gun available that shoots polyester staples which  are
    > light brown in color.  You simply sand off the tops and thus the holes   
    > are
    > already filled.  The hull or deck is then cut off of the forms from   
    > below with a
    > razor blade, once the s-glass has been installed.  This  technique was  
    > used in
    > building USA020.  For anyone interested, contact me  for the  
    > distributor's
    > address.
    > Alternatively, the builder in Belgium claims to have built his Swift-Solo
    > without using any staples or screws to hold the strips in place.  I  
    > would  be
    > interested in learning more about the technique.
    > Bill Scheumann
    > USA020 and USA040
    > In a message dated 9/18/05 11:18:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
    > keith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
    >
    > The  other thing to do is staple over a piece of twine or string.  Have
    > a  piece of string on each frame or station.  Then just pull the string
    > and the staples come out.  Another way it to staple through plastic
    > strapping tape (you need an air stapler to be sure you have enough
    > "push" in the staple).  String is simplest.  If the staple  doesn't come
    > out you have a great crown in the staple to grip and pull  out.
    >
    > K
    > On Sep 18, 2005, at 7:42 PM, Mark White wrote:
    >
    >> To  anyone still using steel staples, the best and fastest way I found
    >> to remove them is to cut a piece of hard wood (I used hickory)  3/8 X
    >> 3/8 X about 4" long, and sand a sharp angle on it, then simply  drive
    >> it under the staple and keep on driving.  There is little  or no damage
    >> to the strips and it goes fairly quickly.  You will  have to resharpen
    >> it every 30 to 50 staples or so.
    >>
    >> Sincerely,
    >>
    >> Mark<P9180004.JPG>This  is the Swift Solo mailing list.  For
    >> unsubscribe  instructions,
    >> visit here:  http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >



    -- 
    Don't be good. Have LOTS of fun.
    Live large, love life, and sail fast.
    Robert Harper USA 050 "Fugu" 


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