Thanks Robert. I hadn't given proper consideration to joint strength,
so your reply is most helpful.
It's not so much I'm trying to solve a problem, but rather trying to
plan out what needs to be purchased / set up...
I won't begin this project with all the materials needed, but rather
will end up purchasing things in stages; the wood included. So my
perspective on building is a bit more like, "How much hybrid twill
will I need for the bulkheads? How much resin? How many boards will I
need to purchase and rip to get me through page 19 in the manual? Do
I need any boards longer than 6 feet in length? and perhaps most
importantly: Do I need to set up both my table saw and router rigs
now, or can it wait until stripping the boat?" The volume discount
on the cloth and epoxy is negligible; on the raw wood it's non-existent.
In a perfect world I would purchase all the wood now, rip it, bead
cove it, and be done with it. But then I wouldn't have the money
available for the cloth, tape, resin, etc. -- Things I need for the
bulkheads, soldiers and small pieces. Since the wood on the small
pieces will be covered with the hybrid, I don't have to worry about
matching color - so it can come from a different batch than the wood
that will be visible.
So that's where my question originated -- I'm certainly not
questioning the construction methods in the manual or that others have
used- If I had the bead/cove strips on hand the question never would
have come up.
Thanks again for yours and everyone else's responses-
cameron
On Feb 6, 2008, at 9:19 AM, Robert Harper wrote:
FWIW,
I think you want to still use strips with a cove and bead for the
transom and bulkheads. You can go with wider strips if you want but
I think the cove and bead will give you a stronger joint because of
the increased surface area and shape. Butt joints are not very
strong. In fact, they are the weakest joints you can make with wood.
I would not try to stray too far from proven methods. Often there
are reasons that people go to the extra work for some things. No one
wants to do more work than they have to but to take too many
shortcuts and have things fail on you is much more wasteful of your
time and money.
I'm not quite sure what you're trying to solve by using simple butt
joints for the transom and bulkheads. If you are trying to save
time, I don't think you'll gain much because you'll want to run the
strips on a joiner so that the butt joints match up well without
voids. I think running the router to put a cove and bead on will be
easier and much less expensive than trying to get butt joints to fit
properly.
When I built my canoe, I used butt joints to join shorter strips
together to get the length I needed. This was very problematic for
the stripping process so on the later boats, I've used a 12:1 scarf
joint that is very strong and works great. I once tried feather
joints but I had problems with those because the bond wasn't much
stronger than a butt joint and I'd end up with a similar mess to
what I had with butt joints. There was a lot more time involved in
doing the scarf joints but it sure made a huge difference in the
stripping process and the quality of the finished process. I had
much less fairing to do and it looked much better. I hate sanding
and scraping so if there is something I can do to reduce that part
of the process, I'm all over it.
On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 09:57:43 -0700, Warren Stevens <warren@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> wrote:
Crusher (my blog) is mostly what I did with a few addendums from
ideas on the list. The idea of cutting strips but not cutting the
beads and coves into them for the bulkhead material was something I
dreamt up, but haven't tried. It theory it seems like it would be
a good way to save some time and effort, but of course, it's not
tested...
Be careful to ensure the grain is the right direction - on all the
strips you want grain visible on the wide sides, not the narrow side.
Warren
----- Original message -----
From: "Cameron Hunziker" <cameron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: swiftsolo@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 17:18:43 -0800
Subject: Soldiers, bulkheads and transom...
I got my plans yesterday, and have been alternating between them, the
mailing list archives and the Crusher site (You sir are a gem!)
pretty
much non-stop for the last 16 hours. And I have a few thoughts:
1. I read on the Crusher site of a discussion about using clean (not
beaded or coved) strips for the bulkhead. Further reviews of the
archive turned up a conversation about the possibility of using
plywood. I will be ripping my own strips, and will likely rip them
in
2 or 3 different stages. So that got me thinking, could the bulkhead
material be composed of cedar 1x4s ripped into 1/4" x 4" s and glued
together to form the 5" x 5" sheet of material? The grain of the
wood would still run vertically, but it would mean a hell of a lot
less glue (roughly 16 or so glue lines) and fewer cuts. It should
also be lighter, but will it be less strong or less absorbent to
shock?
2. On a similar note, could the transom also be assembled w/o bead
and cove (I'd stick w/ 1/4" strips here for aesthetic purposes)?
3. Bram's trick on how he did his deck design (gluing full strips of
mahogany and cedar and then cutting into smaller segments) got me
thinking about the tee soldiers. Could they be assembled with the
fillets and glass tape as a single strip and then cut to length w/ a
think kerf chop saw? With this approach it might be easier to
attach
the cedar strips without using staples (sandwiching the cedar -
soldier - cedar with a couple of 2 x 4s either clamped or screwed to
your work table)
Are these reasonable solutions, or am I delusional from lack of
sleep?
Thanks!
Cameron
This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
--
Live large, love lots, and sail fast!
The mark of who you are is determined by what you do when you don't
have to do it.
USA 050 Fugu
77959 Wasabi
Robert Harper
This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
This is the Swift Solo mailing list. For unsubscribe instructions,
visit here: http://catzooks.com/swift-solo/
|